Paraguay remembers Pres. Rutherford 'Baller' Hayes; still scarred by 1860s war, Paraguay nears election

RBH & I at the Museo Municipal de Villa Hayes, Paraguay.
RJ Peltz-Steele CC BY-NC-SA 4.0

UPDATE, May 10: The incumbent Colorado Party prevailed in the Paraguayan presidential election on April 30.

The tie between 19th-century U.S. President Rutherford B. Hayes and the distant South American nation of Paraguay endures there today, resonating at the heart of issues in the upcoming Paraguayan presidential election.

Presidential Ballers

Comedian Stephen Colbert joked in October 2022 about Rutherford B. Hayes, bringing to mind a President of curious and far-ranging legacy.

Former President Barack Obama had released a get-out-the-vote video in which he informed young voters who he is and boasted of "the best jump shot in White House history." "He has the best jump shot," Colbert conceded in his Late Show monolog. "But not the best dunk. That was President Rutherford B. Hayes. The 'B' stands for baller."

Colbert showed an amusingly doctored image of a bearded and head-banded Hayes dunking (video below via Internet Archive).

The Real Rud B.

In reality, the "B" was for Birchard, the maiden surname of Hayes's mother, Sophia. She raised Hayes and his sister as a single mom. Hayes's father died before Hayes was born.

An Ohioan, Hayes was a lawyer and abolitionist. He made a name for himself with vigorous and creative representation of fugitive slaves. Hayes was shot while fighting for the Union in the Civil War. His military service was lauded by President Ulysses S. Grant (whose 201st birthday is upcoming), whom Hayes succeeded in the presidency in the Compromise of 1877, resolving the contested election of 1876. Part of the compromise involved withdrawing federal forces from the South, which did no favor for people emancipated from slavery. Hayes can be credited, though, for appointing "the great dissenter" of the Reconstruction era, John Marshall Harlan, to the U.S. Supreme Court.

The flag of Departamento de Presidente Hayes, Paraguay.
RJ Peltz-Steele CC BY-NC-SA 4.0

Villa Hayes

It happened, also in October 2022, that I visited a distant legacy of President Hayes, a city and department in Paraguay named for him. Departmental capital Villa Hayes, north of Asunción on the Paraguay River, is in the Gran Chaco region. The region was at the heart of the territorial conflict in the War of the Triple Alliance. The devastating and brutal guerilla conflict, the worst of its kind in Latin American history, embroiled Paraguay in war with neighbors Argentina, Brazil, and Uruguay.

Hayes exhibit at the Museo Municipal de Villa Hayes, Paraguay.
RJ Peltz-Steele CC BY-NC-SA 4.0

After the war ended, in 1876, Argentina and Paraguay disputed their post-war border and asked U.S. President Hayes to arbitrate. Though Argentina had substantially prevailed in the war, Hayes sided with Paraguay in the border dispute and awarded the country the bulk of the Gran Chaco.

To the present day, the region speaks to the arbitrariness of war. Beautiful as it is, the dry and sparsely populated Chaco has struggled to achieve agricultural and economic productivity. Moreover, the region was never really controlled by any of the modern nations that contested it, rather by the indigenous people who knew how to survive there and still do.

There is a parallel between this tribute to Hayes in Paraguay and the monument to President Grant in Guinea-Bissau that I saw and last wrote about in 2020. President Joe Biden recently having marked the 25th anniversary of the Good Friday Agreement in Belfast, it occurs to me that in modern times, the custom has ended of sitting presidents being enlisted personally in dispute resolution abroad.

Paraguayan Presidency

Relative to neighboring Argentina and Brazil, Paraguay lags in development, a long lingering effect of the War of the Triple Alliance. The settlement of the conflict left Paraguay as a buffer between the two Latin American powers. 

Paraguayans are frustrated by the chronic corruption and bleak jobs market that now threaten the long-running rule of the incumbent Colorado Party in the presidential election upcoming at the end of April. Still, the party, in the person of candidate Santiago Peña, an economics professor, has a sound shot at retaining power. Long historical experience with dictatorship manifests as distrust of challengers. Primaries in the fall were marred by a suspicious fire at election headquarters in Asunción. 

Polling in late March in the plurality-takes-all contest showed a narrow and probably statistically insignificant lead by attorney Efraín Alegre, a center-left candidate representing a coalition of more than 20 parties determined to displace the Colorado Party. Apropos of my recent lamentation on Chinese influence in Latin America, Alegre pledges to cut Paraguay's diplomatic ties with Taiwan to smooth the way for Paraguayan soy and beef exports to China.

Historian explores Grant statue's African odyssey

My photo from Bolama in 2020
RJ Peltz-Steele CC BY-NC-SA 4.0

Martin H. "Jay" Joyce, author and my colleague in the exploration of historical curiosities, has authored a new article about the origins and winding story of the statue of U.S. President Ulysses S Grant on the island of Bolama in Guinea-Bissau and its two appearances on Bissauan postage stamps.

I have written about the Grant doppleganger's odyssey previously, in March 2020, when I got some of the facts wrong, and in November 2020, when I corrected and updated the record. Now Joyce has dived deep. He teases his piece thus:

In the March-April 2020 issue of Topical Time, Mr. George Ruppel recounted the story of why Portuguese Guinea (now Guinea-Bissau) issued stamps in 1946 and again in 1970, featuring Ulysses S. Grant. Grant was honored for arbitrating a dispute between Portugal and Great Britain during his presidential administration in favor of Portugal. The crux of the dispute involved territorial rights over the island of Bolama, just off West Africa’s coast.... In the mid-twentieth century, Bolama frequently appeared in the philatelic press because of the Pan-American Airways Clipper airmail routes, which used Bolama as a stopping point before proceeding across the South Atlantic....

An internet search for statues of American presidents around the world rarely includes this statue. Why not? As former ABC News radio commentator Paul Harvey would say, "Here's the rest of the story...."

The article is Ulysses S. Grant in Portuguese Guinea—the Rest of the Story, Topical Time, May-June 2022, at 60. Topical Time is the journal of the American Topical Association.

Joyce is a 1974 graduate of the United States Military Academy. He is the author of Postmarked West Point: A US Postal History of West Point and its Graduates, a winner of a Vermeil award at the 2021 Great American Stamp Show. His forthcoming work from La Posta Publications is The West Point Post Office: 1815-1981: Keeping It All in the Family—Nepotism, Paternalism and Political Patronage, ... and Dedication to the Corps.

Attorney Scaturro talks monument metrics

Grant monument in Chicago (image CC BY-SA 3.0)

Attorney Frank Scaturro has written an in-depth, four-part-essay series on monument destruction for Emerging Civil War, a platform "for sharing original scholarship related to the American Civil War."  Here is part one, and here are links to all four parts.

Scaturro is president of the Ulysses S. Grant Monument Association and is working on a book about "New York City’s largely forgotten sites from the founding era."  I quoted Scaturro writing about Grant's civil rights record here on the blog back in November.  I put a couple of my own coins in the monument meter in October.

Grant group investigates curious reappearance of US President in Guinea-Bissau island 'ghost town'

From GMA newsletter, vol. XVI, no. 1, fall 2020, at 4, my photo at right.

Earlier this year, I wrote about the short, strange life of statues in Guinea-Bissau, and, in particular, the strange-upon-strange birth, disappearance, and re-creation of a statue of U.S. President Ulysses S. Grant in an abandoned park in the "ghost town" of Bolama Island.

In March, I reported that, since going missing mysteriously in 2007, the Grant statue "was recovered in pieces, and authorities ultimately restored him."

Not quite so.

Grant Monument Association (GMA) President Frank J. Scaturro (Twitter), by day an attorney and historian who is vice-president and senior counsel at the Judicial Crisis Network, noticed that my March photo of the statue did not look like the original.

Your intrepid blogger visits the cane rum distillery in Quinhámel,

Guinea-Bissau, in March. (RJ Peltz-Steele CC BY-NC-SA 4.0)

Scaturro and the GMA dug into the mystery of the statue's reappearance in the middle of the barren park that was once Guinea-Bissau's glorious "Praça Ulysses S. Grant."  (As to why there is a monument to a U.S. President at all on this West African island, see my March post.)  The pieces of the original statue never have been recovered.

A March 2018 photo shows a still empty pedestal.

(Helena Maria Pestana CC BY-SA 4.0)

The latest GMA newsletter (vol. XVI, no. 1, fall 2020) explains how the present likeness of Grant came to be in 2018:

This occurred at the initiative of then-Governor Quintino Rodrigues Bone. Approximately 100,000 CFA francs (roughly U.S. $180) were spent from the local government fund to obtain supplies for the work—a harness, cement, gravel, and colorless paint. With these materials, a local artist, Luizinho (Zinho) Ká, constructed a cement statue. He did not receive any compensation for his work.

....

According to the State Department, there is local interest in replacing the cement statue with a new bronze replica of the destroyed statue, but no funding to do so.

My dispatch from Guinea-Bissau came just before the cancel-culture toppling of monuments across the United States.  Sadly, the fall 2020 GMA newsletter also reported the vandalism and toppling of a Grant bust in San Francisco's Golden Gate Park in June.

Scaturro said, "It is ironic that a monument to Grant was restored in Guinea-Bissau soon before another was torn down in San Francisco. Americans who do not respect our heritage can learn a lesson from the people of Guinea-Bissau."

Anyone can join the New York-based Grant Monument Association or visit the General Grant National Memorial in New York (check for covid updates).  Scaturro wrote in a statement on Grant's civil rights record:

As the principal author of Union victory during the Civil War, Grant was the principal enforcer of the Emancipation Proclamation.  As president, he secured laws that enforced the recently ratified 13th and 14th Amendments and acted decisively to ensure the ratification of a 15th Amendment that would ban racial discrimination in voting. His achievements included five enforcement acts, the creation of the Justice Department, and the Civil Rights Act of 1875, which desegregated various modes of public accommodations and transportation. Grant repeatedly employed military intervention to enforce Reconstruction and crushed the 19th-century Ku Klux Klan. Among America’s top leaders, from military commanders to presidents, none has a more sweeping record on civil rights.

The GMA hosts periodic programs of interest to the public and historians.  On November 19, at 7 p.m. US EST, the GMA will host an online colloquy, "A discussion of the partnership between General Ulysses S. Grant & General William T. Sherman," featuring General David Petraeus and Ulysses S. Grant Association Executive Director John Marszalek.  GMA members receive registration information.

US President haunts African 'ghost capital'

Main traffic circle in Canchungo, Guinea-Bissau.
All photos RJ Peltz-Steele CC BY-SA 4.0.

Throughout Guinea-Bissau, in West Africa, characteristic landmarks found in town centers, parks, and traffic circles are large, dilapidated blocks of painted concrete, often graffitied. These blocks are actually bases that have held statues of prominent leaders during the country's tumultuous history since independence was declared in 1973.

For Guinea-Bissau, it's been a journey as rocky and potholed as the nation's roads. Independence from Portugal was hard fought, with the Soviet Union, Cuba, and China pouring in arms for the revolutionaries to the end of establishing a communist foothold in West Africa. Anti-revolutionary soldiers were mass murdered after their defeat. Subsequent instability and corruption led to civil war in the 1990s, and election turmoil and political violence marked the 20-aughts. The presidential election in 2019 was contested, and just this week, since inauguration of the ultimately recognized victor, there are reports of military intimidation of the courts. No wonder statues don't last long in poor Guinea-Bissau.

That makes one statue still standing all the more an oddity. In an overgrown park in the heart of the main town on Bolama Island, in the Bijagos Archipelago, at the center of low walls of crumbling concrete that once demarcated colorful stars, the likeness of 18th U.S. President Ulysses S. Grant rises defiantly.

The Grant statue is a curious throwback to Portuguese colonial rule. Actually, all of Bolama Town is a throwback to colonialism. Once grand Portuguese constructions crumble in slow decay in what's sometimes called Guinea-Bissau's "ghost capital." European powers such as Portugal favored locating their colonial bases of operations on offshore islands, where winds kept malarial mosquitoes at bay. Today the ghost capital is inhabited, despite its state; thousands of people live in subsistence, and sometimes dependent, conditions amid the ruins.

In the 1860s, President Grant became the mutually agreed upon arbitrator between Portugal and Great Britain over territory in the islands. After Grant awarded Bolama to Portugal in 1870, the Portuguese erected the statue to honor him. Notwithstanding the resolution of that dispute, and despite British efforts to aid the Confederacy and topple the Union in the Civil War, Grant was ultimately credited with strengthening U.S. relations with Britain during his two terms as President in the Reconstruction era. Grant proved so popular abroad that he and his wife embarked on a world tour after his presidency, and, with the imprimatur of President Rutherford B. Hayes, Grant inaugurated the custom of former presidents conducting informal diplomacy abroad.

The tale of Grant's Bolama ghost gained an unusual epilog in 2007, when the statue went missing. Ofeibea Quist-Arcton reported the story for NPR. Apparently stolen to sell as scrap metal, Grant was recovered in pieces, and authorities ultimately restored him--not how things usually work out for statues in Guinea-Bissau.

Ruins of Portuguese palace in Bolama Town

Abandoned cinema in Bolama Town

A storefront in Bolama Town painted for politics

Kids swinging in a refurbished Bolama Town park